Monday, 9 July 2018

Day 264 - Celebrating our 30th anniversary with an island tour

30 years! Wow, what a wonderful adventure it has been so far.

It's a scorcher today. Although, I think it was even hotter in Toronto on the day we got married than it is today in Italy.

Breakfast at the Venissa. Yes, that is cake in the
middle for breakfast.
The Venissa provides an absolutely glorious start to each morning of our stay, and today was no exception. Our waiter in the mornings has been Matteo, a truly delightful, friendly and charming man who we took an instant liking to. Not only could he make a mean cappuccino, he was excellent at knowing just when you might need another one without being intrusive. But more important, he was a great conversationalist if you wanted a chat, and he and Phil chatted about everything.

Phil with his new friend, the
wonderful Matteo.
We enjoyed lovely breakfast of fresh baked breads, homemade jam, fresh fruit, ham and cheese on a table Matteo had set today in the shade at the front of the hotel so we could watch the world travel ever so slowly by. Why would you ever want to leave?

After breakfast, we decided to make it a day of exploring a couple of the lesser visited islands in the lagoon. We hopped on the vaporetto at the stop near our hotel, and took it to the next island, Torcello.

Phil braves the Ponte del Diavolo (Devil's Bridge), perhaps so named because of its lack of railings?
The name is actually thought to come from either a family name, or from a legend in which a local girl,
anxious to be reunited with her Austrian lover ,makes a pact with the Devil to provide him with
the souls of seven children to be exchanged on the bridge.
At first glance, it's difficult to believe that at one time Torcello was a more powerful centre for trade than Venice. Some say it was home to almost 30,000 people, although recent archaeological findings suggest that was closer to 3,000. It was first settled about 450 BC due to mainlanders trying to avoid raids, although there is evidence that canals and passageways existing since the second century. Torcello had close ties both culturally and for trade with Constantinople, but its distant position allowed it to remain autonomous.

The island is surrounded by vast areas of salt marshes, and it is these marshes that led to both its economic boom and its eventual decline. The island's main industries were fishing and ship building. By the 14th century, land levels had lowered and the marshes become increasingly difficult to navigate. Add to that several major outbreaks of plague and growing issues with malaria, and the population decline also took a toll. Torcello's palazzi,12 parishes and 16 cloisters have for the most part disappeared. The Venetians took away most of the building material for use elsewhere.

Today, the long canal from the vaporetto stop leads to one small palazzo with the cathedral, church, the town's former council chamber and archives (which house amuseum), and the nearby basilica and campanile. The island has about 10 permanent residents, including the priest of the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, founded in 639. Somewhat surprisingly, there are several lovely looking restaurants along the canal edge and B&Bs...would make a lovely place for a small wedding, if anyone reading this is in the market. ;-)

We took the vaporetto back to Burano, stopping en route to pick up a grapefruit gelato (which upon eating on our first day here, I immediately became addicted to), then hopped on another vaporetto to a stop near the town of Treporti. From here, we had to switch to another vaporetto to the island of Sant'Erasmo. This sparsely populated island is the second largest in the lagoon, and it is here the most of the fruits and vegetables are grown for use by the residents of the city of Venice. The island is famous for its artichokes, but zucchini, peas, lettuce, basil and more are also grown here. The local honey is even derived from the flowers of artichoke plants.

Despite the strong, hot sun, we walked the road to a restaurant located on a beach overlooking Venice and the Lido, passing through the countryside en route. 


Our restaurant for lunch was the Al Bacan, where we enjoyed an artichoke pizza (of course) and fitto misto (a mix of battered seafood and vegetables), along with a very large bottle of sparkling water (a must on these hot days) and a couple of local beers (another must, despite Phil's declaration that he is not drinking ales).

Then we took the slow journey back to Mazzorbo managing to avoid all the vaporettos filled with tourists heading back to Venice at the end of the day.

Later in the evening, we strolled into Burano for an evening meal to celebrate our anniversary. Being a Monday, many of the restaurants were closed, but the Trattoria da Romano was open. We got a table for two outside under a large awning and ordered a bottle of Prosecco. The sky began to cloud over and looked almost brown off to our left. We asked the waiter if he thought rain was coming, and he shrugged but said he thought it would blow by. Lucky for us, it didn't. We ate our delicious seafood dinner with a beautiful roaring thunderstorm passing over us. We kept dry under the awning, and by the time we had finished our dessert, the rain had stopped.

It was magical ... just like the every day of the last 30 years.








Sunday, 8 July 2018

Day 263 - Chillaxing on Mazzorbo

View to Burano
from Mazzorbo
Another morning, another sunny and hot summer day. Our plans for today, given it's a Sunday and likely to be very busy with weekend tourists, is to enjoy a bit of a lie in and then a long breakfast before heading out to do, as George Costanza would say "nothing." Today is a day about "nothing."  In other words, Angela will take her drawing kit and I will grab my Jonathan Kellerman crime novel and we're going to migrate around the island of Mazzorbo looking for shady spots under which to draw and read. Meanwhile we can look across the narrow channel that separates us from Burano and watch the tourists swarm into it from the water buses, tour boats and cruise ship shuttles. By about 6 p.m. the streets will be emptying and that is when Ange and I will venture across the bridge into Burano for a late supper.



Artichoke garden in our hotel.
The island of Mazzorbo, in addition to being the location of our hotel, its two restaurants and the vineyard and fruit/vegetable gardens (artichokes and tomatoes are big here) also has a couple of other restaurants and a small canal that bisects the island with colourful houses on either side. On the section adjacent to Burano is a more modern housing development that has been painted in a variety of colours to match the older houses on this island and on Burano. At one time Mazzorbo was an important port (which explains the bisecting canal) for trade, but today it is known mostly for its vineyard and orchards. There are paths everywhere which allow you to walk and cycle around it. In the middle is a football stadium where the local Burano team plays and it is closely associated with Venice FC, which plays in the Italian Serie B (one level below the top division Serie A).

Church of Santa Caterina
Mazzorbo was settled by those running from Attila the Hun and his Barbarian hordes who invaded the area in the fifth century. It has been found that the Romans developed a large city on the mainland near where the Venice airport now exists and this may be where the inhabitants of Mazzorbo came from. In the 11th century, this island and the surrounding islands, such as Torcello, lost out to Venice as the principal location for trade and development. Today, the most significant historical building on the island is the Church of Santa Caterina built in the later part of the 13th century. In the 17th century there were two churches and three monasteries on Mazzorbo, with one of these monastries associated with Santa Caterina.

Some Canadian with the Tower
of Sant'Angelo behind him
In the vineyard associated with our hotel there remains the 15th century tower of one of those two churches, Sant'Angelo, the church itself having been demolished in the 19th century. One cannot turn around without seeing some evidence of the amazing history of this region among all of these islands; Mazzorbo, Burano, Torcello, San Erasmo -- but only if you have waited for the tourism horde to have made their way back to Venice proper.

Ale of the Day: Unfortunately I have suspended this segment until my return to the UK as there are no real ales available here - just lagers, which I will suffer with until then.







Saturday, 7 July 2018

Day 262 - Venice to Burano

Time to leave the hustle and bustle of Venice in high tourist season and seek out a quieter location for a couple of days of rest and relaxation. The wonderful thing is that Venice is surrounded by lots of other islands accessible by vaporetto in under an hour (and usually much less). So, we are off to a small hotel on the island of Mazzorbo for the next three days.

The hotel is the Venissa, and is situated on a wine resort and vineyard on the main canal through the island. I'm letting you in on a little secret here: if you want to visit Venice, this is really a wonderful place to stay. It gets you out of the busyness of Venice, while still being in a beautiful and romantic place complete with history and canal-side walks.

We chose to be here as in a couple of days we will be celebrating our 30th wedding anniversary. The resort while small has two restaurants, one of which has a Michelin Star. We haven't decided if we are going to partake of the 5 to 7 course options on that restaurant's menu, along with wine pairings! Will keep you informed.

A modern bridge connects us to the next island, Burano -- a must-see on any visit to Venice. A rainbow range of colours are used here to paint the homes, and adding to it are balconies of beautiful flowers. While the reason for the use of colour is often attributed to letting fishermen see their homes from the sea, it may in reality be for a more legal reason as the colours help to distinguish property lines on the connected homes. However, despite the apparent variety, not just any colour can be used; anyone wanting to paint their homes must get approval first from the government.

Burano has its own leaning tower or campanile: it is 53 metres high and leans 1.83 metres with respect to its axis. But in reality, these are everywhere!

This tiny island has a population of about 2,800 people, much greater than the neighbouring Mazzorba despite being less than half the size. It is said that people have lived here since the 6th Century. It wasn't until the 16th Century that the economy really took off -- thanks to the ladies of the island. Their lace-making needlework become world-renown, particularly among European royalty and nobles. When you think of paintings with those intricate and fine lace colours, most likely they were Burano lace. At it's height of popularity, lace was being produced in assembly-line-like production on the island. It was tedious and mentally straining work: at one time, one "lunatic asylum" in Venice listed among its inmates 30 Burano lace makers.

Today, you can still purchase the lace although now it is primarily limited to the edges of tablecloths and pillow cases. The island also produces very expensive hand-woven linen, much of which is purchased for use in high-end hotels and on yachts. We didn't need anymore linen for the yacht, so no purchases this trip.

But we did need seafood...and Burano is noted for it! If you are looking for fresh, just-out-of-the-sea flavour, this is the place to be. Mmmmm!


Friday, 6 July 2018

Day 261 - Venice Day 2

You have to get up pretty
early to see the square this empty
The sun rose up over the Piazza San Marcos on the morning of our second full day in Venice. Angela, the fotografo straordinario, had woken me early to hustle over from our accommodation to what is arguably one of the most beautiful locations in the world: St. Mark's Square. Her reasoning was that in addition to the morning light that would enhance the colours of the scenery we we would also be avoiding much of the tourist crowd that will inevitably be filling up the square today. According to the author Margaret Plant, a French tourist book from the mid-1800s once asserted that when Napoleon occupied Venice he described the piazza as "a salon designed for the sky to serve as a canopy" and on this day, and at this time, it certainly was. Most people would recognize a picture of St. Mark's with it's three distiguishing structures. The first is the free-standing bell tower known as the Camponile di San Marco. It rises over 320 feet above the square and was first built as it looks now in 1514, but in 1902 it fell apart and it took ten years to reconstruct. The tower is associated with the St. Mark's Basilica, which stands across the square.


Sunrise over San Marco
The basilica is the centre of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Venice and was originally the chapel of the Doge of Venice (the political leader of the Republic of Venice, elected by the city's aristocracy for over 1,000 years until the French occupation at the end of the 18th century). It is Italo-Byzantine architecture and the first chapel was constructed there in the 8th century A.D. The chapel has taken many shapes, but the look it has today has been attributed to the 11th, 12th, and 13th centuries with many of its features and ornateness resulting from the Republic's involvement in the 12 Crusades. It is only since the early 1800s that it has been the location of the Archdiocese.

Bridge of Sighs - palace to the
left and the prison to the right
Finally, there is the Doge Palace. It has taken many forms since its early years of the 8th century, but the look it has today is from the 1300s. As it's name suggests, the palace was the home of the Doge and was used not only for living purposes but also housed offices that were associated with the political actions of running Venice.

When you walk along the waterfront from St. Marks easterly, you pass the famous "Bridge of Sighs" that linked the palace with the prison. It get's its name from the sighs that prisoners would make as they looked out its windows on their way from the court to the prison. It was built in 1600 so actually existed later than much of the Venice history associated with inquisitions and executions, although at the end of the 1500s there was the inquisition of the Venetian Jews, which leads me to our next topic of the day.

In the Ghetto district ,the buildings are typically higher
than other parts of Venice, because Jewish residents
could only build up not out.






Angela had mentioned that based on one of her previous visits to Venice it would be interesting to go to the Jewish Museum. Located in the Venetian Ghetto area, it provides an interesting perspective on the history of the Jewish culture in Venice. The word "ghetto" is actually derived from here. The museum itself comprises one large floor of a tall building that also houses two synagogues. In 1516, the Republic of Venice required all Jews to moved to this area of Venice where they were sequestered. Even prior to that time, if you were of the Jewish faith you were limited in how you could live and what occupation you were allowed to perform. There jobs included operating pawn shops and lending, activities that Christian Venetians were not allowed to partake in. Even though these heavy restrictions existed, a culture of arts and science flourished within both the Ghetto Nuovo (New) and the Ghetto Vechia (Old) districts. At night, the bridges that crossed canals that isolated these districts from the rest of Venice were closed and policed by the Republic. This lasted almost 300 years until Napolean arrived and removed the restrictions giving Venetian Jews the freedom to move about Venice.

"So when is history un-natural?" pondered this Canadian tourist
Entrance to the
museum
We then made our way to the Museum of Natural History, located only a stone's throw from the water bus stop near our B&B.  Our knowledge as to what we might encounter here was limited aside from the generalization that it would address earth history. But we also anticipated that it would have a Venetian context to it. We were not disappointed. Located in a wonderful building along the Grand Canal, it houses a tremendous variety of natural objects ranging from fossils to anthropological discoveries, all of which were found and donated by members of Venice society, past and present. It was the associated history of the past members that was so different for us. Fossils and dinosaur bones can be found at the Royal Ontario Museum, but here we discovered the work of many prominent Venetian explorers, with the most interesting of them being the one's who travelled the African continent.

We had a late and light lunch (say that three times real fast) before heading back for an afternoon nap and the World Cup game (Uruguay vs France). There is nothing like an Italian sportscaster and the game of football (soccer) -- they make the simplest of maneuvers of the game sound exciting!

Ale of the Day: Unfortunately I have suspended this segment until my return to the UK as there are no real ales available here - just lagers, which I will suffer with until then.

Thursday, 5 July 2018

Day 260 - Venice Day 1


Breakfast for two.
What do you do first when you wake up knowing that the maze of streets, sights, aromas and sounds of Venice await? You open the windows in your room, take a seat at the lovely table in your room laid out with breakfast and inhale the aroma of bread and cappuccino. Once physically energized and mentally relaxed, you pull out the map of Venice and consider the myriad options open to you.

Saint Eustachius Church
(San Stae)
Today we opt to first take a wander around the neighbour in which we're staying. The vaporetto stop closest to us is known as San Stae, an abbreviation for Saint Eustachius, which is the name of the church in the small plaza at the stop. It was founded in the 11th century, but the version you can see to the left was built in the 17th century. The church contains the tomb of the Mocenigo family, seven of whom were doges (the senior-most elected official in Venice which was a republic) between 1414 and 1778.

We love to wander and let the city surprise us with the wonderful things it has to offer. Every nook and cranny, canal, piazza and building is unique.

The portego of
Palazzo Mocenigo.
Curious as to what an original palazzo looked like inside, we decided to take a trip to the nearby Palazzo Mocenigo Museum. This 17th-century gothic palace was the Venice home of the Mocenigo family. In 1945, the family's last decendent, Alvise Nicolò Mocenigo bequeathed the palace to Venice for use as an art Galary to supplement the Museo Correr, the main museum in St. Mark's Square. However, his wife continued to live in it until her death. It became the city's museum of textiles and costume in 1985, and while we were there, was also showcasing a display on the history of perfume making in the city.

The furniture in this room is original to the palace.
The tablecoth is of  handmade lace from Burano
and the glass is from Murano.









You enter the museum from the street entrance (not quite as stunning as the canal-side entrance, but still beautiful), and take the grand staircase up a flight to what is known as the piano nobile -- the noble floor of the house in which the main reception rooms and bedrooms were set. We wandered through about 20 connecting rooms, admiring the art, much of which depicted family members or local dignitaries or battles in which the family had been involved.

The evolution of the waistcoat.
One room contains a vast collection of men's waistcoats from the 17th and 18th centuries. Originally knee length and with sleeves, the front was made of silk and the back of linen or cotton, and was worn under a jacket in order to keep warm. In the 18th century, the waistcoat was shortened reaching just below the waist with two tails. By the end of the century, the sleeves were gone and it sometimes had a collar.

One thing to know about Venice in July, all that stonework turn it into a rather large bread oven, so mid-afternoons are for naps.

Following our rest, we took a vaporetto to Giardini on the southeast side of Venice where there is a large park. The trip takes you along the Grand Canal, so is a great way to tour the city...although you do have to deal with the crowds of tourists and locals trying to make their way home from work.

The area at this end of Venice is far more residential, with lots of trees and few tourists. Families were out playing in the parks, walking dogs, chatting. We had a lovely time meandering the streets. Soon it was time to find a place nearer our hotel for a mid-evening dinner.








Phil outside the stadium where
Venice's soccer team plays. 



Wednesday, 4 July 2018

Day 259 - Off to Venice

Famous St. Mark's 
Thirty years ago, my lovely wife and I were preparing for our wedding and our honeymoon that followed. The honeymoon was going to include a stay in Venice. When we did get there, we had only one day (we were on a 22-countries-in-21-days tour through Europe) and even then the night before and the night after Venice were spent at a hotel on the mainland. This time we are spending a week here before taking a train back to London (spending a few days in Turin and Paris on the return ).

Our British Airways flight was scheduled to arrive into Venice at 5 p.m., but as this is the 4th of July it wasn't a surprise when our flight was delayed 90 minutes because air traffic control appeared to be holding flights back across Europe.

Church of San Giorgio Maggiore
Upon arrival at the airport, we still had to take the airport bus to the Venice bus centre and then a water bus to the stop by our hotel in the St. Stae area of the Grand Canal. We are spending 3 nights at Ca' Bonvicini, a small B&B where we stayed five years ago on our 25th ... getting the idea that we like Venice to celebrate romance? We'll be spending the other 3 nights on Burano (actually an adjacent island called Mazzorbo) and will tell you all about that when we get there. 

The Ca' Bonvicini is a lovely spot and our room has a triple aspect with two large windows overlooking a narrow canal, another on a small side canal and the last on a pretty internal courtyard.  This makes for a delightful breeze in the morning as we sit and eat the breakfast they bring to our room.
Our hotel and the room
overlooking the canal
We'll be chatting about our stay here over the next six days, but on our arrival I thought I'd provide a brief history of Venice. It lies in a collection of 118 islands connected throughout by bridges and by boats. A 4-kilometre road and rail line link the islands with the mainland. Venice is home to about 55,000 residents. It only became part of Italy in 1866; before then it was an independent state until occupied by the French under Napoleon (1797) and then controlled by the Austrians when he gave it to them. When Italy defeated Austria in the 3rd Italian War of Independence, they took back this area and incorporated it as part of the Kingdom of Italy. The city survived without much damage during the Second World War and interestingly was taken by New Zealand troops as part of the Allied victory over Fascist Italy. Today tourism is a major revenue generator with more tourists visiting the city each day during the high season than actually live here. It has become a significant issue for the sustainability of the city and I look forward to examining this for myself over the next few days.

Ale of the Day: Unfortunately I have suspended this segment until my return to the UK as there are no real ales available here - just lagers which I will suffer with until then.






Tuesday, 3 July 2018

Day 258 - Searching for my grandfather


34 St. Francis Road (formerly Constance Road) today
where my maternal grandfather was born.
My maternal grandfather, Herbert Sims, was born in 1900 in East Dulwich, which is now part of the borough of Southwark in southeast London. The street he was born on is today called St. Francis Road. However, when he was born there, the street was known as Constance Road. The reason for the name change makes an interesting story.

In the century before my grandfather was born, Dulwich was growing rapidly. In 1851, the population was about 1,600. However, in the ten years starting in 1881, 5,000 homes were built, including the homes on the then new Constance Road. By the time my grandfather arrived, 10,000 people lived in Dulwich, including, the author Enid Blyton (famous for the Noddy, Famous Five, and Secret Seven series of children's books), was born a few blocks away three years before him.

Workhouses for the poor, aged and infirmed were already a well-rooted part of British society's way of coping with those who found themselves unable to fend for themselves. While sometimes this predicament was due to drink or poor life choices, more often it was due to aging, illness, mental health issues, job loss, or death of the main family breadwinner. With the rapid growth of Dulwich's population, the two local workhouses were at capacity. The Poor Law stated that workhouses had to be designed so as to discourage people from entering them. That meant they had to have conditions that were worse than poverty itself. Unfortunately, the only way to make them as bad or worse for many poor on the outside of the workplace was to starve the "inmates" as they were known. People began to be critical of the treatment the poor and destitute were receiving, and believed that "external" relief should be given to those in need rather than making workhouses the sole refuge.

Despite these changing views, officials in Dulwich decided another workhouse was needed and found land for one at the end of Constance Road, where new homes were being built and in close proximity to the two other existing workhouses. The Constance Road workhouse, as it was named, was completed in 1894, and held 900 sick and infirmed, with "lunatics" being housed in one of the older workhouses. At the time of the Constance Road Workhouse's opening, The London Press reported that “were the workhouse not indicative of a painful state of affairs socially, we should be inclined to congratulate Camberwell on the possession of such a stately pile of buildings. As it is, we are content with the remark that Constance Road Workhouse is the most thoroughgoing, up to date and convenient Poor Law establishment yet built.”

My grandfather, Herbert Sims, at
about aged 10. This picture was 

taken upon his entry into the 
Home for Boys.
When my grandfather was eight years old, his father, who was a compositor with a printer, became ill. In an era when if you became sick you lost your job, he found himself in the hospital ward of the Constance Workhouse where died. Sadly, he left his wife, son and two daughter with no means of support. About a year and a half later, my great-grandmother was destitute. Her sister arranged for my grandfather to go into the care of the Bernardo's Home for Boys. Less than two weeks before his tenth birthday, he was admitted into Leopold Orphan House, "a voluntary home for little boys between 10 and 13 years of age, accommodating 420 inmates in good health who are capable of giving their whole time to education." Over the next two years he moved from here to other nearby homes for boys. Shortly after he turned 12, according to Barnardo's records, "...he sailed to a new life in Canada." This new life was child labour on a farm in Baltimore, Ontario where he stayed until he was almost 16, when he "outgrew" his job (in reality, at 16 the farmer would have had to pay him more. My grandfather's employment contract was moved on to another nearby farm, where he stayed until he wanted to enlist in the First World War.

Constance Road Institution.
Source: http://www.exploringsouthwark.co.uk
At about this time, the term workhouse had become politically incorrect in the UK, and the names of any that were still existing were changed to "Institutions." By 1937, the name changed again to St.Francis Hospital, and Constance Road became known as St Francis Road. The hospital became part of the NHS in 1948, administratively moving between different hospital groups and authorities until 1984 when it became the north wing of Dulwich Hospital (the former St Saviour’s Union Infirmary). The hospital closed in 1991 and the former workhouse buildings flattened two years later. A housing estate was built on the site. Similarly, the orphan boys homes in which my grandfather lived were demolished and new housing built in their place. I suppose no one really wants reminders of that part of history.

The Foundling Museum in London.
My intention today was to go and visit the places I could find that were associated with my grandfather and his time in the Barnardo system, but since all are gone, I decided to visit the Foundling Museum in London. The museum is built in what was once the Administrative Building for the Foundling Hospital, built in 1793 to take in London's abandoned babies. At the time, poverty was rampant in parts of London, and 75% of children did not live beyond five years old. The hospital took in children up to 12 months of age, from any first-time mother who was unmarried and had been abandoned by their baby's father. The idea was to try to remove the stigma of bearing an illegitimate child and give the mother one chance to turn her life around. The babies would be sent them to live with a wet nurse in the country, where they remained until they were 4 or 5 years old. They then returned to the hospital, with girls being trained to be servants and boys to enter the military. Many medical professionals were associated with the hospital who worked on trying to resolve many of the illnesses of the day, including cholera.

Unfortunately, the museum tells little of the story of the children taken in to care. Instead, most of the museum is devoted to the works of art donated to the museum by artists and patrons as a way for the hospital to raise needed funds. These works are beautiful, and many do depict life as it was for some of the children, but for the most part, most of the detail of actual life for the children doesn't exist.

The chapel in the Foundling Hospital.
One unique "donation" of a sort is the contribution of the composer George Frideric Handel. When Handel wrote Messiah, he had a difficult time finding a venue in which it was considered okay to perform. Theatre environments were considered too sacrilegious and the work was considered too long to play within a church service. Handel had the opportunity to perform his new work in the Foundling Hospital's small chapel, so he decided to give any money raised to the charity. It was so successfully received  that he asked if he could continue to perform it there. He conducted the piece every year until his death in 1759, and in his will left a copy of the score to the Hospital. This allowed the charity to continue staging the concerts and raising funds. The score and parts are on display in the Foundling Museum, alongside his original will.

The museum did allow me to understand a bit more about society's influence and the pressure to have to give up a child. I can't even begin to imagine the pain of that. I suppose when 3 out of 4 children are dying around you, you make the tough decisions.

In my genealogical research into my grandfather's life, I've managed to find out some interesting information. What has touched me most about this research is seeing how decisions continue to reverberate through the generations. My mother remembers her father as a quiet, gentle man who spoke to her only once about his childhood and how he came to live in Canada. As a boy surrounded by hundreds of other boys facing the same experience, I'm sure that in many ways he saw his life as typical of the time. While he was definitely scarred by what he went through, he lived in a era when you did not burden others with your story, since it wasn't different than most of those around you. You were labelled ungrateful if you complained.

But who my grandfather was made my Mother who she is, and onward to me and my siblings, and our children. Beyond how we look, we take a bit of our ancestor's past with us into our futures in how we think and act, and that it often developed out of the environment in which they were raised. While I didn't discover anything specific to my family today, I did get a glimpse at the pressure placed on you by the times. I look forward to continuing my research and uncovering more about those who came before, and hopefully getting to know them and myself a bit better.

















Monday, 2 July 2018

Day 257 - Lincoln Revisited - the Castle and Jail

Castle tower in background,
jail building in foreground
Happy Canada Day!  Again!   (I thought I should address the legal requirement that we celebrate the day on the 2nd).  Although the title of today's post would suggest otherwise, we didn't stay in Lincoln but, since today was spent travelling south to stay at a hotel next to Gatwick Airport (in anticipation of our flight to Venice in two days), it was more exciting to talk about the second half of our outing to Lincoln.  That involved us taking a tour of Lincoln Castle and the  Jail that remains.  The castle was built on the original site of the Roman fort and much of what exists today began with the Normans who built the stone walls in 1068.  The concern by William the Conqueror that there was a need to fortify the area against the attacks from the north by the remaining Danes was reason for its construction.  It became part of a family feud in the 12th century when two cousins, the ruling English King Stephen was challenged for the throne by Empress Matilda, the daughter of the previous English King Henry the 1st.  Stephen was his nephew but when Henry had no surviving sons the powers that be supported him rather than her.  The castle was a royalist stronghold and survived attacks by Matilda's army.  She got the last laugh though because when Stephen eventually died, Matilda's son became the next King, Henry the 2nd. 

Victorian prison with "new style"
isolated prison cells
If only our classrooms were like this....
The castle was always used as a prison but it was in the 18th century when its use as a strategic fort was replaced by the need for an expanded prison facility.  It it was built to keep others out it certainly could be used to keep others in.  Internal structures within the castle's extensive courtyard were removed and a courthouse and jail were constructed.  The concept of isolation was being introduced at the time.  This meant that individual cells would keep them apart as opposed to in larger rooms and they had designed it for both women and men.  Access to isolated courtyards was also introduced.  An interesting remnant of the isolation approach included a chapel where prisoners were also isolated in separate stalls (see picture) prompting Professor Sanderson and myself to wonder if such a system could be used in a classroom setting....   Eventually the need to put multiple prisoners into cells because of limited space for new convicts led to the disuse of the facility in 1878. 

Professors Sanderson and Walsh
pondering education reform.
Hanging wall in background.
Public hangings were moved from the town center because of the rowdiness and drunkenness of the crowds that surrounded the hanging rope.  Instead they were performed on the northeast tower of the castle where crowds could view from below in the upper part of the town.  It is here that the first "long drop" hanging was performed where instead of choking to death, the executed were dropped a sufficient distance so that their necks were broken - a more humane approach and one that became the common method. Bodies were then taken across to the  Lucy Tower (so named after Lucy, the Countess of Chester in the 12th century) which had its top filled in with dirt so as to allow for a cemetery that exists to this day.   The court house also remains and is still used to handle court cases in Lincoln.

After a long hot afternoon walking the walls and visiting the cells resulted in ice cream on the bench and eventually our return to Market Overton.

Ale of the Day: Magna Carta Amber Ale, Lincolnshire Brewery, Lincoln.





   

Sunday, 1 July 2018

Day 256 - Happy Canada Day and Lincoln

Happy Canada Day!
Happy Canada Day everyone!  It is July 1st and I know that the law states that if the first of July falls on a Sunday then Canada Day is moved to the Monday which this year makes July 2nd Canada Day.  But to heck with that.  So this morning we got up and with our hosts the Sandersons, we celebrated Canada Day by tying a Canadian flag to their back garden gate as well as putting two smaller flags into the flower box they have on their exterior wall to their drive. 

Old town of Lincoln
When we were driving down from Whitby yesterday the discussion in the car turned to the great cathedrals of England.  The Sandersons had been to most of them whereas we have only been to a few, none of which included the cathedral at Lincoln.  When Stuart found this out he was adamant that we visit it and suggested today would be a good day to do just that.  So into the car we went and off to Lincoln.  Lincoln is not very large but it is a cathedral city (much like Hereford and Worcester that we visited earlier in this blog).  To be classified as a city in the UK requires approval by the Queen or King and there are a number of criteria that must exist in order for that to happen including being of a certain size.  However, cities with a cathedral were granted city status because of the importance given to them by having a cathedral located there.  Lincoln sits on the River Witham and it had its beginnings during the late Iron Age around 100 B.C.  The Romans occupied the area in the first century A.D. and they built a fort and called the settlement Lindum colonia.  The Old English translation resulted in it becoming  Lincylene and then Lincoln.  Eventually the Vikings began their raids on this area and the Danes soon became the dominant power. 

Lincoln Cathedral as seen from the wall
of the Lincoln Castle

It was after the Norman invasion of 1066 that Lincoln fell into the hands of William the Conqueror's army and they began the process of increasing the fortifications and eventually supporting the construction of the cathedral in 1072.  The Lincoln Cathedral is pretty impressive and was worth the visit.  For over two centuries (1300's to 1500's) it was the tallest recorded structure in the world.  It has been subject to destruction by an earthquake on the 15th of April, 1185.  It has also survived a number of fires over its history but the present structure has been standing since the 15th century. 


The "Imp"
The cathedral is famous for a couple of things.  One is major and the other minor.  First the major, it is the site of one of only four existing original renditions of the Magna Carta (we did see the other one at Salisbury Cathedral).  The minor is indeed very small, and that is the "Imp".  This is a small carving at the top of one of the columns in the cathedral that is referred to as a "grotesque".  Legend has it that two imps were sent by Satan to create havoc on earth and they found themselves in the Lincoln Cathedral causing trouble for the Bishop.  An angel was said to have been sent to deal with them and while one imp did escape and become part of the Walsh family, the second was found at the top of the column throwing rocks and it was turned into stone by the angel.  That is why it remains in that position to this day.

 Now if you believe that well.........

Ale of the Day: Cheeky Imp Red Ale, Lincolnshire Brewery, Lincoln