Day 19 - Parklife

Sunday morning, sunny weather and thoughts of an afternoon roast bouncing around in our heads meant that today was a day for walking. But before I start down that road, I want to point out to those of you who are music enthusiasts that, even though I did not start off with lyrics, I have titled today's blog after one of my all time favourite band's albums. You will have to look that one up yourselves.

Now where were we? Ah yes, today we were welcomed with lovely weather and a need to get out and see something of Swindon. The town is an example of what was done under the Town Development Act of 1952, a post-war legislation that sought to relieve the congestion of people in places such as London by encouraging the development of smaller towns such as Swindon into larger urban centres through improved transportation links such as high speed rail (trains into London Paddington) and car motorways (M4). Nearby Basingstoke is another example. As a result Swindon has many areas that are high-density, late 1950s and 1960 architecture that is, quite frankly, stark and ugly. So we were not sure if a walk through Swindon would provide us with much.  However, we found a reference to a circular walk that would take us through a number of city parks and along an abandoned railway. In addition, a small lake was not far from our hotel and had a pub near it that would most likely serve up a Sunday afternoon roast. Combining the two walks together meant another 16 kilometer day -- enough calories burnt to justify the roast.

Goddard Manor circa 1900

And what a delight the walk was! Our first stop was an old estate that was turned into a park. Situated on Nob Hill, the "Lawns" estate of the Goddard family had been on this spot with wide-ranging views to the valley east of Swindon since the mid-1500s (although a manor house at this location had been in place since the 1300s). But when the last of the Goddard family lineage died in 1927 and then his wife in 1931, the estate went to ruin. I expect that the high death taxes at the time may have had something to do with it. One couldn't help but think of the TV series "Downton Abbey." Eventually the manor house was torn down and the estate reverted to the town who have since turned it into Lawns Park.

As you exit the northwest part of Lawns Park you pass through a beautiful church known as Christchurch of St. Mary. The boulevard of trees leading up to the front door was picturesque and almost enticed this Agnostic to venture through its front door to the morning service.


To the north of the church was our next stop, Queen's Park. This park is an example of  the benefits of gentrification as the town had taken land that was derelict and converted it into green space within the town. It is a small-scale botanical garden with small ponds and an elaborate path system that make for a perfect escape for those living in the surrounding area. And on this day, this park was filled with families of all cultures spending some together time in a natural environment.

A short journey uphill through terraces of rowhousing brought us to the Town
Gardens. Home of the Lawn Bowling club and the bandstand. Perhaps it was the beautiful weather on a fall day or certain scents in the air, but one felt like they were in the park of Mary Poppins. I had to look around to see if Dick Van Dyke and a bunch of dancing penguins were going to make their way by. The experience was topped off by an ice cream stand that screamed out "you have to have one" and of course we did: salted caramel crunch for me and honeycombe chocolate ripple for Ange.

Next up was the old railway trail. It was originally a working rail line between Southampton to the south and Chippenham to the north. Known as the Midland and South Western Junction Railway, it began service in 1871 and was eventually taken over by its rival, Great Western, in 1923. By 1961, the portion of the railway serving the south end of Swindon with the north end (where the current station is located) was no longer being used and the line was abandoned. Today it is a biking and walking trail which runs along the southerly edge of the town.

This trail took us back to the street leading to our hotel and after a brief break we continued on to Coate Water Country Park. This park surrounds a large water reservoir that was constructed to provide water for the nearby Wilts and Berks Canal system. It was built in 1822 for that purpose, but when the canal system closed in the early 1900s, the reservoir was converted into a pleasure area where people could come and swim. There remains a 10-meter diving platform with an art deco design, but it has since been taken over by various water fowl seeking to dry out or nest (take a look at the pub sign below). As with all the other parks and pathways, we had walked in and on this day, there were many families enjoying a day out. I have to admit, I was missing our kids! When we lived in England, we as a family spent many Sunday afternoons walking through the countryside. And, the adjacent golf course was also calling out to me.

However, knowing that at the end of our trail that day was the Sun Inn pub and their Sunday roast and a pint of fine ale, my mood improved immensely. At this location there has been a building for over 340 years and it has been known as The Sun alehouse since 1779. It had been closed for most of the early 20th century but re-opened in 1937. It is owned by the local brewer, Arkell's, and remains one of their larger pubs. In terms of their Sunday roast, as you can see from the photo, we were not to be disappointed.

A full stomach and full day of exploring meant a return to our hotel for some rest and relaxation, not to mention watching some NFL football -- gotta love the time difference. My Lions came back to beat the Falcons too!

Ale of the Day: Wiltshire Gold, Arkell's Brewery, Swindon, Wiltshire