Day 77 - 'Tis the season for Christmas Markets! - Part 1

Work and pleasure collided today, as Phil and I headed off to Winchester. Tomorrow, Phil has an early class and I had been looking forward to strolling about the renown Winchester Christmas market. So, it took no convincing at all that perhaps we should travel to Winchester the day before his class, get a B&B, see the Christmas market, and then meet up with Lord and Lady Tanqueray for dinner.

Source: 3worthylane.weebly.com

After working until about 1:00, we threw a few necessities in a bag and grabbed the train to Winchester. Well, really it was three trains: Moreton in Marsh to Reading, Reading to Basingstoke (where I used to work), and then on to Winchester. We arrived around 4 p.m., and our B&B -- 3 Worthy Lane -- was only a few blocks from the station. We were warmly greeted by Judy, the proprietress who, after showing us to our very comfortable room, headed off downstairs to make us a nice cup of tea. This was served along with some lovely biscuits in her dining room. Very civilized. [I will chat more about Judy and her delightful B&B in tomorrow's blog.]

I wanted to see the market all lit up while it was dark, so we walked into the town centre at about 5:00 (already very dark). Along the way, the streets were lit with overhanging lights, and major historical buildings had gold and silver icicle lights twinkling from their eaves. [Kudos to those in town responsible for that!] The main thoroughfare in Winchester has a number of historic buildings and has been pedestrianized, which is really wonderful. [Why don't more cities find a way to do this...Yonge St/Queen St. in Toronto: hint, hint!].

The market is organized by and is setup surrounding the Winchester Cathedral. It is an absolutely stunning location. Even prettier than I had imagined. Since 2006, the Cathedral has set up wooden chalets and an ice rink, similar to a German Christmas market. It's proven a huge success, bringing a lot of visitors to town -- between 350,000 and 500,000 people during the month it's on. The Cathedral hand-picks vendors, selecting those offering only the best in handmade, well crafted goods. No mobile phone companies or insurance companies here trying to sell you services. Just a feast for the eyes ... and the nose as the aroma of cinnamon, cloves and citrus fills the air from vendors selling homemade wreaths, freshly baked minced pies, and huge copper vats of warm mulled wine. It's a tough gig to get a spot at...one gentleman with a whisky stand informed us he had been trying to get in for four years. Nice to see the Cathedral team responsible keeping this such a wonderful experience.

Over 100 Germany-style chalets are on display around the Cathedral.
Source: http://www.winchester-cathedral.org.uk

Farnham, by Louise Braithwaite. We used to live up this
street, past the castle at the top of the hill.

We were really hungry, but as we were meeting his Lordship and her Ladyship for dinner, we decided we'd come back tomorrow to indulge. However, we did take a look at some of the Christmas wares to be had, including stopping to chat with an artist whose work I immediately recognized. Louise Braithwaite is a lifelong friend with one of my British clients, Lorna. Louise's work is very colourful and fun, depicting scenes from the local towns and villages. We bought a card showing an image up Castle Street in Farnham where weO used to live. You can see more of her work here.

The market started to slowly close up for the evening around 6:00 [no one was rushing people away...so nice to see], so we wander about the town for an hour before our dinner reservation.

The river Itchen runs through Winchester, coming very close to the Cathedral. On the main bridge crossing, a miracle was said to have occurred in the 9th Century. A woman dropped a basket of eggs as she crossed the bridge. St. Swithun came along and made the whole again. St. Swithun was a bishop at the Cathedral and he is buried there. Interesting history to St. Swithun if you want to read more.

John Keats. Who wouldn't be
inspired wandering the streets
of Winchester?

Our walk along the river brought us to an old mill. It's a lovely area, where gardens run down to the river, and lovely painted doors open out of stone walls along the river as if just waiting for you to draw a boat up along side them and then come into the garden for tea. Two historic figures are thought to have lived on Colbrook street, near the river. One was Nell Gwyn, Charles II's mistress [we mentioned Nell in a previous blog as it is claimed she is responsible for the site on which the Chelsea Hospital now stands]. Poet John Keats wrote his "Ode to Autumn" during some time spent here in the early 19th century.

Source: thebookshoparoundthecorner.co.uk

We passed a fantastic looking bookstore, P&G Wells and spent time browsing the window display. We knew if we went in, our wallets would be done for.  Don't you just miss the paper smell and displays of the independent book store?!

Phil tries to resist going into the
 Wykeham Arms for his
ale of the day.

Nearby was the Wykeham Arms; the bar side was filled with those having an after work/pre-dinner drink, while the dining room was set for those coming later. It had that look of a perfect English-style library, with dark wood, paintings and a jumble of other items to catch your eye all set off by candlelight.

We joined up with Lady and Lord Tanqueray at the Palm Pan Asia Restaurant. The Thai food here was excellent. The usual lively conversation and laughter ensued, over good food and even better libations. Too soon it was time for us to call it an evening...work day tomorrow.

Stay tuned for more on Winchester tomorrow!