Day 78 - 'Tis the season for Christmas Markets! - Part II

Winchester Cathedral

You're bringing me down

You stood and you watched as

My baby left town

Do you recognize that song opening? It's was written in 1966 and released by a British novelty group called The New Vaudeville Band. You can listen to it here. I can't think of the words "Winchester Cathedral" without having at least the first line of the song play in my head [I have the same problem when I see a "Way Out" sign on the London Tube, although in that case I hear the "Way Out" song from The Flintstones... and if you remember either of those, then welcome to my world...and sorry that you'll be singing them for the next 24 hours].

But I digress.

Today, we woke earlier than we really wanted to. It would have been lovely to have the time to lounge about in our lovely B&B room. Judy, who runs the B&B had generously agreed to prepare breakfast for us a bit earlier than usual so that Phil could make it to his class on time. Fried free-range eggs, local bacon, mushrooms, tomatoes, toast and jam, and Phil was ready to face the day...and the steep hill he had to climb to get up to the business school at the University of Winchester.

Judy of 3 Worthy Lane B&B.

I was leading the more leisurely life, and so stayed at the dining room table, enjoying my coffee and the last of my toast, while having a wonderful chat with Judy. She is the perfect person to run a B&B: she takes great pride in what she does, she is genuinely nice and she enjoys meeting people. We chatted about life, family, work. travels...and what to see in Winchester. I could have chatted with her for hours, and we would have become lifelong friends, I am sure! But she had a hair appointment and I had some sightseeing to do and shops to browse before meeting up with Phil at noon, so we had to part.

First up, a walk to Winchester Castle. The original castle was build in 1067, by William the Conqueror. In 1222, Henry III constructed the Great Hall  -- the only part of the castle that remains today, although you can see the foundation of other parts. On the wall at the end of the Great Hall hangs the Round Table... yes, like the one linked to King Arthur.  Thomas Malory, the 15th century author of Le Morte D’Arthur, identified Winchester as the site of Camelot. But in reality, it's not THE round table of legend. In the Middle Ages, tournaments were held called Round Tables, and this table is thought to have come from one of those. It has been dated back to the 1200s.

From here, I walked down the main shopping street, stopping in at any shop that took my fancy, while trying to avoid the Cornish Pasty shop and the bakeries. Success!

Although I did not go into the Cathedral on this visit, I was inside several times when I lived in Farnham. Winchester was also a great day out from there with whoever came for a visit. We'd ride on the upper level of the double-decker bus which would offer us great views over the hedgerows to the surrounding countryside.

You'd think by now one cathedral would be looking like the next. But it isn't so. Each one has a wealth of unique history, and Winchester is packed with it! What's fascinating about Winchester in particular is the famous women buried within and without it. Let's start with Jane Austen. She is buried within, having died at the very young age of 41 (so much accomplished). Interesting is the fact that when she was buried, no mention was made on her tombstone of her writing. It was still a time when it wasn't considered proper for a woman to be a writer, and so her novels were published anonymously. Although they were well received when published, she did not receive any fame for it. In the 1870s, another plaque was placed in the Cathedral by her nephew, this time mentioning her as the writer of books which by now bore her name as the author.

Mary Sumner is also buried here. She founded the Mothers' Union, a worldwide Anglican women's organisation.

Here too is Victorian feminist and social reformer, Josephine Butler, noted for her work in trying to end human trafficking of young women and children into prostitution. She was a suffragette and campaigned for the right of women to better education.

Also buried here is St. Swithun. We was born in Winchester around 800. During his life, he counselled the Saxon kings Egbert and Ethelwulf. For the last 10 years of his life, he was the Bishop of Winchester. St. Swithun's Day is celebrated on July 15. It has a proverb associated with it that reminds me a bit of Groundhog Day:

St Swithun's day if thou dost rain

For forty days it will remain

St Swithun's day if thou be fair

For forty days 'twill rain nae mare

Source: Winchster.cathedral.org.uk

The remains of King Cnut lie in chest in the cathedral. Cnut was king of Denmark, before forcing his way into the role of King of England in 1016. Winchester was his capital city. 

Winchester has a host of other interesting connections to royalty. You can read more here.

Before I knew it, it was time to meet up with Phil. We'd plan to meet at noon, so I decided to give myself half an hour to walk up the hill to the University and find the business school. I needed a full 28 of those minutes! 

Phil's class over, we walked back into the Christmas market to enjoy lunch and soak up the atmosphere before heading back home on the train. On the menu: a sausage in a baguette covered in melted French cheese then a Kouber Kusse for dessert.

Phil trying to decide what Kouber Kusse to try.

We purchased a bottle of single malt whisky from Morrison & Mackay Whisky and then a German handmade Christmas ceramic house, before heading back to Moreton in Marsh in time to watch what have become our two favourite shows: Peaky Blinders and The Detectorists (which couldn't be more different from each other). More on those another day.